ISLA ISABELA

December 11, 2009
I think we have found paradise! This is a remarkable island totally uninhabited except for the fishermen who populate a small beach off our bow. The island is 20 miles off shore, the exact position for those of you using google earth is: 21.50.6N, 105.52.7. Huge flocks of birds populate what feels like every square inch. Blue and yellow-footed boobies along with frigate birds, terns and gulls live in on the cliffs and nest in the trees. Even Steve tip toes through the groves so as to not disturb the mating pairs and babies. The blue-footed boobies are my favorite as their young are covered in snow white down. It is amazing how they allow us to walk literally a foot away, sometimes closer. I’m talking thousands and thousands of birds. Jacque Cousteau protected this island from development in 1980 as it was one of his favorite places. We have had some amazing walks along cliffs and lava shorelines. And the weather, well it’s always clear, hot, and humid with a slight breeze blowing.
Today is Friday (if it were not for this computer I would be unsure) and we arrived on Wednesday morning around 7:00am. Our departure from Mazatlan began around noon with the spinnaker gently blowing us past the tourist beach and south 150.° We had two remarkable encounters with whales on this journey the first being the most spectacular. We had just finished lowering the genacker into its sock (this is no easy task for just Steve and I…we miss you Amy) and literally 25 feet off our starboard side I saw a massive whale swimming parallel to us much like a dolphin would do. I shouted to Steve, as we are all a little paranoid of whales due to the incident that occurred during our first leg on the Haha, and he calmly replies, “Look, he’s playing with us.” So,this journey began playing with whales. There were two of them, which looked to be as long as our boat (39’) side by side and they gradually spouted away off our stern and we continued to have multiple sightings the entire way to Isabela.
I went snorkeling yesterday and saw a manta ray, turtles and lots of various tropical fish. I have never snorkeled in such deep water and the reefs were incredible off the cliffs. Great exercise! We spent hours mindlessly swimming amongst the treasures of the sea. Lots of jellyfish and the biggest danger is sharks……haven’t seen any yet but this bay is named Bahia Tiburoneros which means shark in Espanola.
We also had our first jam session on the Lady J. Our buddy boat Rocinante has musicians aboard and they joined us for dinner with a bag of musical instruments and five of us serenaded to the sound of the sea till the wee hour of 9:00pm. We have only two other boats at anchor with us and I’m sure we provided interesting entertainment for them and the fishing village! We leave tomorrow for San Blas 45 miles southeast. Things we need: A water maker, solar panels, more ice, scented candles, sunflower seeds (can’t find them in Mexico mainland) a bigger battery, sweet ginger for bread and chocolate. The fishermen love chocolate for trade. They arrive at our boat every morning with fresh fish. They really are not interested in money and ask for things like water, candy, clothing and smiles! Great people here and life is simple. However, there is a penal colony of four islands southwest of us called Islas Tres Marias which is patrolled by the Mexican Navy and is to be avoided at all cost. I’d love to do a research project on that! We often mention how the prisoners live in paradise out here in the middle of no where….yet I’m sure life is quite miserable for them. Enough said for now, love you all!